Vitamin C: How to Choose the Right Form for Your Skin
Vitamin C - a powerful antioxidant long considered crucial in supporting our bodies, has recently been shining more and more in the spotlight as a skincare star in (natural) cosmetics, promising anti-aging effects and skin brightening .
Its other name is ascorbic acid, as this is its biologically active and most researched form. Is it also the best?
At MOIKA, we firmly believe in the power of nature, but we also value advanced scientific technologies that allow us to create products that are best for you. That's why we decided to combine natural ingredients with selected laboratory-derived derivatives, thus merging these two worlds into one.
This way, we ensure that your skin receives the best of both worlds and receives as many benefits as possible that vitamin C can offer.
Before we delve into the miraculous properties hidden in this highly praised ingredient, let's take a quick look at where vitamin C comes from.
The History of Vitamin C: From Sailors to Skincare Star
By the 18th century, sailors noticed that eating lots of citrus fruits helped prevent scurvy (a nasty disease that causes bleeding gums and other unpleasant problems caused by a lack of vitamin C). At the time, they had no idea what it was in citrus that helped. It wasn't until the 1930s that scientists were able to figure out what vitamin C was.
This is why it is beneficial to have enough vitamin C in your body and skin, but the trick is that our body cannot produce it on its own (interesting fact: some animals, such as mice, can!). So humans must obtain it entirely from external sources. Eating plenty of fruits and vegetables rich in vitamin C will undoubtedly contribute to your overall vitamin C levels.
However, vitamin C levels in the skin will not increase dramatically, as its absorption into the skin from the bloodstream is limited. So, when you consume vitamin C through food or supplements, it is absorbed into the bloodstream and distributed throughout the body. However, the body regulates its levels and at a certain level, excess vitamin C is excreted through the kidneys. Even if you consume larger amounts of vitamin C, this does not necessarily mean that more vitamin C will reach your skin.
But here's the good news! Using a vitamin C cream or serum is often most effective for targeted skin benefits.
What benefits are we actually talking about?
So, we started by describing vitamin C as a true superstar that should not be missing in your anti-aging routine. In order to benefit from all its benefits, it is also necessary to reveal its specific requirements.
The first problem we encounter is its extreme instability – it oxidizes quickly if not stored properly, which means that the quality of the product can deteriorate quickly. The second problem occurs with the absorption of vitamin C, which is water-soluble, while the skin prefers oil-soluble substances. To avoid this, it is important to choose products with a low pH value, below 3.5 pH, as these are more stable and can improve its penetration into the skin. However, such a low pH value can increase the risk of skin irritation, which is another negative factor.
These properties are especially characteristic of vitamin C, which in its isolated form is called ascorbic acid . The name comes from the Latin word " scorbutus ", which refers to scurvy, the disease mentioned at the beginning. When we talk about ascorbic acid, we are talking about the biologically active form of vitamin C , which means that it is the form that our body directly recognizes, absorbs and uses in physiological processes.
Ascorbic acid
- Biologically active form of vitamin C
- Works best between 5-20% concentration
- Water-soluble, water-based formulations
- Quite unstable molecule -> more stable in low pH products -> can lead to skin irritation
- Skin lightening, stimulation of collagen synthesis
- Due to its instability and tendency to oxidize, it is unsuitable for most natural cosmetic formulations.
To preserve the benefits of vitamin C while improving its less desirable properties, various vitamin C derivatives have been developed.
Have you ever thought about how much we actually know about the different forms of vitamin C in cosmetics and how it affects its effectiveness?
If you're buying a product with vitamin C, it's good to know what you're buying. That's why today I'm sharing with you the most common vitamin C derivatives found in cosmetics.
Vitamin C Derivatives: Different Forms and Different Benefits
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
- L-ascorbic acid stabilized with magnesium salt -> water-soluble stable form
- Partially lipophilic and therefore penetrates the skin better
- Less skin irritation -> suitable for sensitive skin
- Reduces hyperpigmentation, less data on protection against UV radiation damage
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sodium ascorbyl phosphate - SAP)
- Poorer skin penetration than ascorbic acid
- In vivo (a Latin term used for processes that take place in a living organism) studies speak to its photoprotective (antioxidant) properties and skin lightening.
- In vitro (a Latin term used for processes that take place in a controlled environment outside of a living organism) studies show stimulated collagen synthesis
- SAP is also said to have benefits for acne-prone skin; a 2005 study found that 1% SAP had potent antimicrobial activity against the acne-causing bacteria P. acnes .
Ascorbyl palmitate (ascorbyl palmitate)
- Stability similar to ascorbic acid
- Lipophilic form, penetrates the skin more easily
- Stimulation of collagen synthesis
- There is currently no evidence that it can be converted into the biologically active form of vitamin C in the skin (ascorbic acid)
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate)
- One of the most stable vitamin C derivatives
- Lipophilic form, penetrates the skin more easily
- Less likely to cause skin irritation
- Protection against UV radiation damage, stimulation of collagen synthesis, reduction of hyperpigmentation
- Suitable for those who tolerate oil formulations well
Ascorbyl glucoside (ascorbyl glucoside)
- L-ascorbic acid stabilized with a glucose molecule
- Extremely stable molecule, soluble in water
- Studies demonstrate conversion to the biologically active form of vitamin C
- Stimulation of collagen synthesis, reduction of hyperpigmentation -> however, research is less extensive
If you've reached this paragraph, I have to commend you - you've now become a true expert on vitamin C.
Together, we can conclude that various vitamin C derivatives are more stable and less irritating to the skin, while still maintaining the many benefits of this important antioxidant.
Natural cosmetics with vitamin C: The right choice for your skin
Not everything that is natural is automatically good for your skin. On the other hand, natural cosmetics also include ingredients that do not grow on trees or anywhere else in nature. And one such example is vitamin C.
As already mentioned, derivatives are in one way or another laboratory-derived ingredients with a more or less represented origin in nature. In natural cosmetics, they are used to ensure the effectiveness of products at the highest, scientifically supported level.
With this approach, we at MOIKA create products that combine natural ingredients and carefully selected derivatives to offer you care that is both high-quality and safe.
Our innovative products, Garden Rejuvenation Fluid and Ričko Oil Serum , are formulated with an advanced vitamin C derivative, which allows for better absorption and stability in the skin.
Rose Rejuvenating Fluid and Ričko Oil Serum contain ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate , which is known for its exceptional absorption ability and also remains in skin cells for a longer time than the biologically active form of vitamin C. I recommend both products for use in anti-aging care, where you want to restore your skin's youthful glow.
Slightly more suitable for acne-prone skin are the products Mountain Rose and Rosehip Serum , which contain sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) . This popular vitamin C derivative not only helps brighten the skin and stimulate collagen synthesis, but also offers antimicrobial properties, making it suitable for all those who have acne problems.
Thanks for reading - I hope you found the information useful. See you next time!
Lina
- Austria, R., Semenzato, A., Bettero, A. (1997). Stability of vitamin C derivatives in solution and topical formulations. J Pharm Biomed Anal , 15(6):795-801
- Enescu, CD, Bedford, LM, Potts, G., & Fahs, F. (2022). A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy. Journal of cosmetic dermatology , 21 (6), 2349–2359.
- Klock, J., Ikeno, H., Ohmori, K., Nishikawa, T., Vollhardt J., Schehlmann V. (2005). Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris. Int J Cosmet Sci , 27(3):171-6.
- Pullar, JM, Car, AC, Vissers, MCM (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients , 9(8):866.
- Stamford, NP Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives. (2012). J Cosmet Dermatol, 11(4):310-7.
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