From plant to oil: an expert guide to homemade macerates

Summer brings moments when nature offers itself in its richest form. Plants are in full bloom, the air is warm, and many people feel the desire to capture some of this power for themselves. Oil extract is one of the most accessible and effective ways to bring the plant into your care practice.

What is an oil extract and why prepare it in the summer

Not every plant is suitable for every purpose. Not every oil works the same. If you want the product to really serve your skin, it is important to know the basic selection criteria. In this article, you will find expertly verified facts, recommendations and lesser-known, but key factors that determine quality. In our new Summer Guide, you will find a comprehensive overview, detailed instructions, specific recipes and seasonal tricks for using plants in everyday care. We describe how to get it at the end of this article.

Which active ingredients are transferred to the oil?

The fat extract contains only those compounds that are soluble in lipids. The most important of these are:
• triterpenoids that support regeneration and have a calming effect
• carotenoids, which have antioxidant properties and strengthen the protective function of the skin
• phytosterols that help stabilize and restore the skin barrier
• lipophilic flavonoids and waxes that affect skin elasticity and structure

More about the role of fat-soluble compounds in skin care can be found in the study by Djeridane et al., 2006, where they analyzed the effectiveness of plant extracts with a high content of phenols and flavonoids.

Fresh or dried herb: what to choose and why

The decision depends on the type of plant and its moisture content. For some plants, such as immortelle, important compounds are lost during drying. In such cases, it is advisable to use fresh flowers that have been slightly wilted before maceration. For others, such as yarrow, a preparation from dried material is suitable, provided that it has been stored properly.

The issue of moisture and the risk of microbiological instability is discussed in detail by Stribor Marković in the article Ingredients and preparation of macerate, where he emphasizes the importance of pre-preparation of plant material for the long-term stability of macerate.

👉 https://www.plantagea.hr/prirodna-kozmetika/sastojci-i-spravljanje-macerata

The most common mistakes in home preparation

Even with very good raw materials, it can happen that the final extract is ineffective. The most common reasons are:

• incorrect choice of plant in relation to the solvent
• Inappropriate harvest time or growth phase
• use of old, oxidized oil
• too high a proportion of plant relative to oil volume
• insufficient filtration after maceration is complete

The visual beauty of an extract does not necessarily mean that it is also functional. This is also pointed out by numerous phytochemical reviews of plants from the perspective of cosmetic use, including the review by Liu et al., 2020.

How to choose the right oil

Each base has its own profile. Olive oil is a traditional choice, but it can be too heavy for sensitive or oily skin. Sunflower oil, which is high in linoleic acid, offers a lighter texture and support for inflamed skin. Plum kernel, hazelnut or poppy oils are also useful, and they work well in various combinations. It is also important to note that cold-pressed high-quality oils also have their own characteristic and more or less noticeable aroma.

Plantagea advises combining different oils depending on the final purpose of the product, with linoleic and oleic acids proving to be key for balancing the skin's barrier function.

Oils used as a base

Hazelnut oil has a dry, elegant texture. It absorbs quickly and does not overpower the plant. It works great on the face, for combination or sensitive skin.

Sunflower oil is softer, more nourishing and very stable. It is also well tolerated by sensitive skin. It can be used in body macerates, protective ointments and baby care.

Olive oil has a strong character. It is thick, slow to absorb, but very persistent. It is used to prepare macerates of plants that require a stronger oil, such as St. John's wort.

The best summer plants for oil extracts

Marigold (Calendula officinalis)

The best are dried ligulate petals, without green parts. Drying should be quick, in the shade and in a draft. For maceration, use a ratio of 1:10 (10 g of dried petals per 100 ml of oil). The jar should be covered with gauze and placed in a bright place. At night, close it to prevent condensation. Maceration lasts 3–4 weeks. The oil has a calming, regenerative effect, and is also suitable for children.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Use the upper third of the flowering plant, preferably freshly dried. The ratio with oil should be 1:10. Macerate in sunflower or hazelnut oil, in a bright place, for 3–4 weeks. Yarrow extract is suitable for skin prone to redness and impurities.

Immortelle (Helichrysum italicum)
Freshly picked flowers are best, as drying causes the loss of some active ingredients. Before maceration, lightly wilt them. The ratio with oil should be 1:5. Keep the jar in the sun for 10 days, then another 2 weeks at room temperature. Immortelle is valuable for the care of mature and sensitive skin.

St. John's wort (Hypericum perforatum)
Use fresh, blooming tops. The ratio with oil is 1:5. The jar should initially be open, under supervision, in the sun during the day, closed at night. Macerate for 4–6 weeks. A properly prepared extract is red in color and has a pronounced regenerative effect.

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
Use fresh inflorescences or well-dried ones. Fresh lavender is more aromatic, but requires more attention. Crush it before maceration. The ratio should be 1:10. Use sunflower or hazelnut oil. Lavender extract is soothing, mild and suitable for daily care.

You definitely didn't expect someone on this list ;).

Plantain. A forgotten ally for soothing and restoring the skin

Although often associated with baby scratches, plantain also has tremendous potential in cosmetic applications. Fresh leaves contain allantoin, mucilage, flavonoids and phytosterols. Allantoin supports skin healing and regeneration, flavonoids contribute to soothing and protecting. Phytosterols and lipophilic flavonoids are carried in the oil as part of the soothing and anti-inflammatory effect.

Due to the high water content, it is recommended to wilt the leaves before use, and then prepare the macerate in a similar way to immortelle: in closed jars, protected from light. Daily shaking allows for better transfer of the active ingredients.

Recipe: Plantain Oil Extract

Ingredients: • 30 g fresh plantain leaves (Plantago lanceolata or Plantago major), slightly wilted • 200 ml cold-pressed sunflower or hazelnut oil • sterilised jar with lid

Procedure: Lightly air dry the leaves to reduce surface moisture. Roughly chop them and place them in layers in a clean, dry jar. Pour oil over them until all parts are completely covered. Seal the jar and let it sit at room temperature, protected from light, for 3–4 weeks. Shake it once a day. After maceration, strain through cheesecloth and pour into a dark bottle.

Use: Use as a stand-alone layer after sunbathing, for soothing after shaving, or as an ingredient in a homemade ointment base. The extract is mild, suitable for baby care as well.

Note: You can use either narrow-leaved plantain (Plantago lanceolata) or broad-leaved plantain (Plantago major). Both species contain allantoin, flavonoids, phytosterols, and mucilage, and therefore have similar soothing, regenerative, and anti-inflammatory effects. Broad-leaved has slightly more mucilage and is an emollient, while narrow-leaved contains more phenolic compounds and is the more researched species in herbal use.

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In it you will find:
• optimal time to harvest plants
• instructions for preparing macerates, hydrolates and hydroglycerites
• ideas for rituals and everyday use of extracts
• tips for feeding plants for winter

The guide is created with a sense of summer in mind, a time when nature is at rest. We warmly invite you to a light but extremely useful summer read.

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