Pravi piling zame?
Kako smo uspeli demonizirati tako koristni del poti k sijoči koži?
Seveda je govora o naravnem, mehanskem pilingu. Izraz uporabljam namerno, saj je v našem prostoru povsem podomačena ali sistemsko prevzeta in v SSKJ2 uslovarjena beseda. Ker sem ena tistih, ki so na jezik in izrazoslovje izjemno občutljivi je prav, da vsem meni podobnim dvomljivcem v pravilno rabo vsemogočih tujk pojasnimo, da gre pravzaprav v tem primeru za besedo, ki jo pozna sedaj tudi Slovar slovenskega knjižnega jezika.
Piling v prevodu ali pojasnilu pomeni dobesedno: “odstranjevanje, luščenje odmrlih, poroženelih celic s površine kože”. Gre torej tudi za t.i. luščilno sredstvo (človek bi kar skrajšal na luščilo, vendar slednjega slovar ne pozna ali pa ga mi nismo našli). Na tem mestu naj omenimo še en izraz, ki je sicer povsem legitimen za uporabo, vendar je, kot še dosti drugih izrazov, na priljubljenosti pridobilo z globalizacijo in rastjo uvoza kozmetike iz angleško govorečih območij. Eksfoliacija (ang. exfoliation) je še eden, malce bolj “nobel” izraz za enak učinek.
Pomembno je vedeti, da z vsemi zgoraj naštetimi izrazi počnemo enako stvar. Odstranjujemo odmrle celice in spodbujamo nove, da pridejo na površje. Mi pa smo tako videti lepši, bolj sijoči in najpomembnejše, mladostnejši.
Kateri piling je primeren za koga in kaj učinkuje bolje, je stvar razprave. Mi smo tukaj zato, da zastopamo barve razuma. Zato smo se odločili za naravno kozmetiko in iz narave črpamo navdih za njeno ustvarjanje. Ne samo iz rožic, dreves in zeli. Iz narave človeka, bioloških procesov, bioritma in vsega, kar se našemu telesu dogaja skozi proces staranja v različnih delih leta, dneva in meseca (moderno se temu reče holizem) počrpamo navdih za kozmetično aplikacijo, ki je smiselna in učinkovita ter predvsem varna.
Kot lahko vedno drago kupimo sestavljeno jed, za katero je nekdo razvijal recept, ga preizkušal, poskrbel, da je jed obstojna in želel za svojo iznajdbo kaj zaslužiti, približno tako je tudi s takimi zadevami. Jed je lahko okusnejša kot tista, ki jo pripravite doma, lahko je bolj zdrava v kolikor upošteva vse mogoče parametre zdrave in uravnotežene prehrane, lahko je dietna, če je tako opredeljena in sestavljena, lahko pa je od vsega naštetega le okusna, všečna in zato zelo zaželena.
Se spomnite, da smo mi glas razuma? Torej, piling si lahko pripravite kakovostno doma in ni nujno, da posegate po pripravljenih preparatih, saj lahko zelo dober efekt dosežete tudi na povsem naraven in preprost način. Od tega stavka ne odstopamo ter za njim stojimo 100%. V nadaljevanju pojasnimo, zakaj imajo klasični načina odstranjevanja odmrlih celic povsem neupravičen renome na socialnih omrežjih in še kje. Prav tako boste izvedeli, katera zgodovinska osebnost je pustila v dotični tematiki prav poseben pečat na prav poseben način ;).
Encimski, mehanski, kemični. V kolikor posegate po mehanskih pilingih doma poskrbite, da bo abraziv (delci), ki ga dajete na kožo NEŽEN. Kar pomeni mlete ovsene kosmiče, ostro moko, mleta zelišča po maceraciji, jojobine perlice… Izogibajte se mletim lupinam oreha na primer. Sedaj ste verjetno že dobili občutek. Piling delci ne smejo bit grobi in veliki zato, da koži ne povzročite mikropoškodb, porušite njene zaščitne funkcije ter povzročite njeno preobčutljivost. Začnite enkrat tedensko, uporabite ta sredstva v gelu ali mleku za čiščenje, na mokri koži, uporabljajte nežne, krožne gibe na majhni površini. Piling NE pomeni drgnjenja, pač pa izjemno nežno masažo. Imejte radi svojo kožo, bodite nežni do nje in ji nudite, kar ji prija.
Začnite s tedensko frekvenco in povečujte do maksimalno 3x tedensko. Ko delce iz kože dodobra izperete, sledita dva izjemno pomembna koraka. Kožo dobro navlažite z naravnim vlažilnim serumom ali tonikom, ter počakajte minutko ali dve. Nato kožo namažite z negovalno kremo, ki jo bo zaščitila in pomagala negovati nove celice, ki so končno zadihale.
V kolikor imate izjemno občutljivo kožo in bi vseeno želeli poseči po mehanskem pilingu, lahko za odstranjevanje odmrlih celic uporabite brisačke/rokavice za čiščenje obraza iz mikro-vlaken, navlažena tkanina bo prav tako dobro opravila nalogo. Obraza nikar grobo ne drgnite, uporabite nežne krožne gibe, na krpico lahko nanesete tudi naravno čistilno mleko ali losjon, ki bo še dodatno pripomogel h gladkemu kroženju.
Za vse, ki se spogledujete s kemičnimi opcijami in niste prepričani, kje začeti, pa je zagotovo najboljše izhodišče način, ki ne daje takoj drastičnih rezultatov (če ste eden tistih, ki imajo radi občutek res čiste kože, ki je nemudoma po pilingu žametna in mehka na otip, le tega zares dosežete le z mehanskim pilingom oz. kombinacijo) je pa nežen in primeren za vse tipe kože ter dobro opravi svojo nalogo; eksfoliacija oz. luščenje s pomočjo sadno-zelenjavnih encimov. Običajno gre za proteolitične encime v izvlečkih papaje (encim papain), ananasa (encim bromelain) in buč. Le ti namreč razgrajujejo beljakovine, ki povezujejo odmrle celice, po tem jih zlahka odstranimo iz kože.
Zgoraj opisani način pa ima svojo francosko in zvenečo izpeljanko gommage! Beseda izvira iz glagola “gommer”, ki v francoščini pomeni izbrisati. Sliši se fino, a ne? Menda je bila prav poslednja francoska kraljica, tudi sicer izjemna ljubiteljica prestiža, lepotnih trikov in anti-age ritualov, Marija Antoaneta tista, ki je s svojo slavno čistilno- luščilno masko odgovorna, da danes o gommage-u še vedno ali ponovno na veliko govorimo.
Danes vedno bolj priljubljena oblika eksfoliacije in čiščenja kože je bila po receptu vladarice:
- 2 čajni žlički konjaka (cirkulacija, adstringent)
- 1/3 skodelice mleka v prahu (obnova celic)
- limonin sok (citronska kislina- kemični piling)
- 1 stepen beljak (vezivo, ko se posuši, ga odsfaljkamo iz obraza skupaj z odmrlimi celicami in nečistočami)
Ker recept ni preizkušen v naši hiši toplo svetujemo, da mešanico sprva testirate na manj delikatnih delih telesa!
Danes gommage dejansko pomeni kombiniran piling, encimsko-mehanski. Gre za obliko (najpogosteje) kremnega gela ali gela, ki ga nanašate na kožo, pustite 10-15 minut da se posuši, nato pa ga z masažnimi gibi mehansko odstranite iz obraza. Obraz nakandno izpirate. Gre za nežno in res dobro obliko odstranjevanja nečistoč in odmrlih celic iz kože. Z nekaj znanja in spretnosti lahko sicer gommage pripravite doma, vendar je enostavneje, če ga poiščete v dobro založeni prodajalni.
Zadnja oblika pilinga, ki jo moramo omeniti, pa so pilingi z AHA, BHA in PHA kislinami. Naš namen ni, da prepišemo znane teorije iz dostopnih virov (nekaj jih navajamo na dnu članka), pač pa, da vam na tem mestu položimo na srce, da tudi ta oblika eksfoliacije, sicer mnogokrat uporabljena tudi v naravnih negovalnih ritualih, zahteva pazljivost in dobro informiranost. Kljub temu, da izdelki za nego kože v prosti prodaji vsebujejo nizke koncentracije omenjenih kislin, je izjemno pomembno, da tako aplikacijo uporabljate varčno, v skladu z navodili proizvajalca, ter se o smiselnosti in načinu uporabe po možnosti pogovorite še s strokovnjakom/dermatologom. V veliko primerih se namreč zgodijo poškodbe in preobčutljivosti, porušene barierne funkcije kože ravno s prekomerno uporabo in neustreznim postopanjem po samem nanosu. Občutljivost na UV sevanje je prvi alarm, ko govorimo o primerni negi po uporabi kislinskih pilingov (AHA in BHA). Nikar ne pozabite na SPF zaščito in jih izvajajte v hladnejših mesecih pogosteje, ter redkeje takrat, ko ste soncu bolj izpostavljeni.
Če se sedaj sprašujete ali kemične pilinge odsvetujemo, je naš odgovor definitivno NE. Vsekakor je vredno razmisleka. Ne samo v tem kontekstu, eksfoliacije so lahko tudi posegi pri usposobljenem zdravstvenem strokovnjaku, ki so ustrezno vodeni, nadzorovani in učinkoviti. Na vas je, kako se boste odločili svoji koži ohranjati kondicijo in na kak način blažiti znake staranja. Pomembno je le, da se zavedate, da so naravno negovanje, dobro počutje, zdrav življenjski slog in zmernost tek na dolg proge kar se tiče vplivanja na kožo. Obstajajo seveda tudi bližnjice. Odločitev je vaša, mi pa smo tukaj zato, da vas pri teh odločitvah kdaj pa kdaj malce izzovemo :).
Na lepo, zdravo kožo in izraz sreče na vašem obrazu.
Darja
Reference in nadaljnje branje:
- https://www.westlakedermatology.com/blog/chemical-vs-physical-exfoliation/
- https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/exfoliate-face-naturally
- https://www.globenewswire.com/en/news-release/2016/12/13/1234731/0/en/American-Academy-of-Dermatology-How-to-Safely-Exfoliate-at-Home.html
- https://www.researchgate.net/publication/224892687_Skin_Care_with_Herbal_Exfoliants/link/54eb59190cf2a0305193c805/download
- https://practicaldermatology.com/articles/2020-apr/the-effect-of-cleansers-on-the-skin-microbiome
- https://www.scielo.br/j/babt/a/sqJsWgp9PVL9XN3k7R6yT5G/
Št. komentarjev: 82
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Exactly after 2weeks I met Dr. Oyagu , he got me cured from my 3 years of silent pains, i just needed to get the items and he got the medicines prepared and sent to me through UPS, I followed his prescriptions and daily routine prayers and the end seems like a miracle that I was totally cured of my HSV2 herpes disease, I was totally cured from my Genital Herpes within a short period of time which was just 2weeks . Doctor Oyagu is so powerful and genuine man, his herbal medicine works for real, I used his herbal medicine and I confirmed it…. very effective herbal medicine for eliminating herpes virus forever is what Doctor Oyagu do make. I’m so glad to have contacted doctor Oyagu for help and here I’m today totally cured from HSV2. Thank you so much Dr. Oyagu and God bless you for all you’ve done for me, I’ll keep testifying about your good work and how powerful and effective your herbal medicine is in eradicating the Herpes Simplex Virus. Doctor Oyagu can be reached on WhatsApp with his contact number: +2348101755322. He is also available on EMAIL: oyaguherbalhome@gmail.com or website oyaguspellcaster.wixsite.com/oyaguherbalhome
I want to appreciate the great work of Dr. Kham Because I got cured from herpes by Dr Kham Two Weeks herb medicine, His herbal Medicine is indeed powerful. I’ll forever keep recommending this product to everyone out there that are still suffering from this shit! Called Herpes Virus, Thank you Lord Jesus for making my healing possible and if not for the help of Dr Kham medicine, | wouldn’t have been cured from my oral and genital herpes by now. I’m so happy right now because I’ll be going to College knowing fully well that I’m free and clean from the herpes Virus. I came across the Doc Kham Website which I used to know more about him, Doctor you are just too amazing with your powerful effective herbal exploits. God bless you herbalist Dr Kham for all you are doing to help people get cured from their herpes simplex Virus and various diseases. You’re truly a Godsend. And I’m very glad to have reached out to you for help. Dr Kham Email is dr.khamcaregiver@gmail.com and his Website https://herbalistdrkhamcaregiver.simdif.com/ But for quick Response of him WhatsApp him on +2348159922297
I was diagnosed with HSV type 2 and have been dealing with it for the past two years. Recently, I came across online reviews about natural cures, where people shared their success stories of recovery through herbal treatments. After learning more, I decided to order the herbal treatment they mentioned. After taking it for just two weeks, I was completely cured! I highly recommend anyone who has been diagnosed with HSV type 2 or other similar viruses consider this treatment. You can contact Dr Lucky for more information. WhatsApp Him +2347071651140 Doctor Lucky Herbal Cure and Email drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com Also Text and Follow Him https://www.facebook.com/remedyforherpes
I was diagnosed with HSV type 2 and have been dealing with it for the past two years. Recently, I came across online reviews about natural cures, where people shared their success stories of recovery through herbal treatments. After learning more, I decided to order the herbal treatment they mentioned. After taking it for just two weeks, I was completely cured! I highly recommend anyone who has been diagnosed with HSV type 2 or other similar viruses consider this treatment. You can contact Dr Lucky for more information. WhatsApp Him +2347071651140 Doctor Lucky Herbal Cure and Email drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com Also Text and Follow Him https://www.facebook.com/remedyforherpes
I was diagnosed with HSV type 2 and have been dealing with it for the past two years. Recently, I came across online reviews about natural cures, where people shared their success stories of recovery through herbal treatments. After learning more, I decided to order the herbal treatment they mentioned. After taking it for just two weeks, I was completely cured! I highly recommend anyone who has been diagnosed with HSV type 2 or other similar viruses consider this treatment. You can contact Dr Lucky for more information. WhatsApp Him +2347071651140 Doctor Lucky Herbal Cure and Email drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com Also Text and Follow Him https://www.facebook.com/remedyforherpes
I was diagnosed with HSV type 2 and have been dealing with it for the past two years. Recently, I came across online reviews about natural cures, where people shared their success stories of recovery through herbal treatments. After learning more, I decided to order the herbal treatment they mentioned. After taking it for just two weeks, I was completely cured! I highly recommend anyone who has been diagnosed with HSV type 2 or other similar viruses consider this treatment. You can contact Dr Lucky for more information. WhatsApp Him +2347071651140 Doctor Lucky Herbal Cure and Email drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com Also Text and Follow Him https://www.facebook.com/remedyforherpes
I want to appreciate the great work of Dr. Kham Because I got cured from herpes by Dr Kham Two Weeks herb medicine, His herbal Medicine is indeed powerful. I’ll forever keep recommending this product to everyone out there that are still suffering from this shit! Called Herpes Virus, Thank you Lord Jesus for making my healing possible and if not for the help of Dr Kham medicine, | wouldn’t have been cured from my oral and genital herpes by now. I’m so happy right now because I’ll be going to College knowing fully well that I’m free and clean from the herpes Virus. I came across the Doc Kham Website which I used to know more about him, Doctor you are just too amazing with your powerful effective herbal exploits. God bless you herbalist Dr Kham for all you are doing to help people get cured from their herpes simplex Virus and various diseases. You’re truly a Godsend. And I’m very glad to have reached out to you for help. Dr Kham Email is dr.khamcaregiver@gmail.com and his Website https://herbalistdrkhamcaregiver.simdif.com/ But for quick Response of him WhatsApp him on +2348159922297
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