Zakaj pri MOIKI kot osnovo formulacije izberemo hidrolat namesto vode?
Več kot le voda: zakaj so hidrolati srce naše naravne kozmetike
Poleti dan začnem zgodaj. Grem na vzhodni del posestva, kjer raste melisa. Tam je še sveže, v zraku je vonj in pričakovanje. Meliso naberem zjutraj, preden začne cveteti. Takrat ima največ učinkovin. Destilacijo izvedemo še isti dan. Tako dobimo hidrolat, ki ni ostanek proizvodnje eteričnega olja, ampak je samostojen izdelek, ki ga uporabljamo v izdelkih za občutljivo in razdraženo kožo. To ni poetičen prizor iz oglasnega letaka ampak realnost, v katero se zbujamo pri MOIKI v poletnih mesecih.
Kaj je hidrolat
Hidrolat, ki mu nekateri pravijo tudi cvetna voda, je vodna esenca rastline. Vsebuje vodotopne snovi, kot so flavonoidi, estri, alkoholi in fenolne kisline. Te učinkovine kožo pomirjajo, pomagajo ohranjati njeno ravnovesje in jo varujejo pred oksidativnim stresom. Odvisno od rastline ima lahko hidrolat protivnetno, antiseptično, vlažilno ali regenerativno delovanje.
Kako destiliramo
Pri MOIKI uporabljamo klasično parno destilacijo, in to izključno iz svežih rastlin, ki jih pridelamo sami ali jih naberemo v neokrnjeni naravi na našem posestvu. Destilacijo izvedemo v nekaj urah po nabiranju, saj je stabilnost rastlinskih sestavin ključna. Vroča para sprosti hlapne spojine iz rastlinskega tkiva, te pa se v hlajeni cevi destilatorja kondenzirajo v dragoceno tekočino. Natatančnost in pravilno zaporedje tega procesa sta odločilna za kakovost končnega izdelka.
Pri MOIKI ne destiliramo z namenom pridobivanja eteričnih olj, ampak postopek prilagodimo zgolj pridobivanju hidrolatov. Uporabimo manj rastlinskega materiala, pazimo na temperaturo in postopek poženemo takoj po žetvi. Tako ohranimo največ koristnih vodotopnih snovi. Ne gre za stranski produkt, temveč za glavni namen. Hidrolati, ki jih dobimo, so bogati, aromatični in aktivni. Odražajo rastlino in okolje, kjer je bila vzgojena.
Kdaj destiliramo pozamezno rastlino in zakaj?
Meliso nabiramo zgodaj zjutraj, tik preden začne cveteti. Takrat vsebuje največ rožmarinske kisline, flavonoidov in citralnih spojin. Destiliramo jo svežo, še isti dan, da ohranimo njen polni terapevtski potencial. Hidrolat deluje pomirjujoče in protivnetno, kar ga naredi odličnega za nego občutljive in stresno reaktivne kože.
Hidrolat melise uporabimo v:
- Metina uravnalna vodica- tonik za mastno in nečisto kožo
- Gozdni slezenovec- dnevna krema za normalno kožo
- Cvetlična osvežilna vodica- tonik za normalno zrelo in suho kožo
- Šipkov serum
Žajbelj nabiramo v začetku poletja, običajno dopoldne, ko so listi suhi, a še vedno aromatično polni. Pri tej rastlini je delna suhost celo zaželena, saj izboljša razmerje med eteričnimi in vodotopnimi spojinami. V tem času vsebuje največ ursolne kisline, tujona in antioksidativnih flavonoidov. Hidrolat žajblja deluje adstringentno, uravnava mastnost in ima blag antiseptični učinek, ato je idealen za nego mešane kože in za uporabo v naravnih deodorantih.
Žajbljev hidrolat uporabimo v Žajbljevem negovalnem dezodorantu.
Meta je najbolj aktivna tik pred cvetenjem, ko se vsebnost mentola, mentona in flavonoidov približa vrhuncu. Nabiramo jo zgodaj zjutraj, ko so listi hladni in spojine stabilne. Destiliramo jo še isti dan, pri nižji temperaturi, da ohranimo njen osvežilen značaj. Hidrolat mete ima hladilni, tonizirajoč in antiseptičen učinek, zato je odličen po sončenju, po britju ali za razdraženo kožo v vročih dneh.
V katerih izdelkih najdete hidrolat poprove mete?
- Gorska roža- uravnalna krema za mastno in nečisto kožo
- Metina uravnalna vodica- tonik za mastno in nečisto kožo
- Žajbljev negovalni dezodorant
Rimsko kamilico nabiramo v polnem razcvetu, ko so cvetovi popolnoma odprti in aromatično najbolj aktivni. V tem trenutku vsebuje največ bisabolola, polisaharidov in flavonoidov, ki dokazano delujejo protivnetno in pomirjujoče. Destilacija poteka še isti dan, dalj časa in pri nižjih temperaturah. Hidrolat je primeren za občutljivo kožo, dojenčke, nego po britju in pri nagnjenosti k rdečici.
Hidrolat rimske kamilice najdete v:
- Kamilica z rmanom- krema za zuho in občutljivo kožo
- Pomarančni čistilni gel
- Ognjičevo mleko za čiščenje
Geranija/Pelargonija (Pelargonium graveolens)
Geranijo oz. pelargonijo nabiramo v času polnega cvetenja, ko so listi in cvetovi nasičeni z geraniolom, citronelolom in linalolom. S sestavinami, ki kožo uravnotežijo in nanjo delujejo protivnetno. Destiliramo svežo celotno rastlino, saj se sinergija med listi in cvetovi izrazi v polnem aromatičnem spektru. Hidrolat je primeren za občutljivo kožo, za težave z rdečico ali hormonskimi nihanji, zato ga pogosto uporabljamo v negi zrele ali reaktivne kože.
Hidrolat dišeče pelargonije je pomembna sestavina sledečih izdelkov:
- Cvet pomarančevca- krema za zrelo kožo z znaki staranja
- Gozdni slezenovec- dnevna krema za normalno kožo
- Šipkov serum
- Cvetlična osvežilna vodica- tonik za normalno zrelo in suho kožo
- Vrtnični pomlajevalni fluid
- Negovalni tekoči puder
Muškatna kadulja (Salvia sclarea)
Muškatna kadulja doseže največjo aromatičnost tik pred ali na začetku cvetenja. Takrat so listi in cvetovi bogati z linalil acetatom, linalolom in vodotopnimi estri, ki delujejo sproščujoče in pomirjujoče. Rastlino naberemo dopoldne, v suhem vremenu, in jo nežno destiliramo, da ohranimo njen topel zeliščno-cvetni značaj. Hidrolat je še posebej primeren za večerno nego in podporo koži med hormonskimi nihanji. Žal smo v zadnjih dveh letih destilirali muškatno kaduljo le enkrat, saj nam jo je z vremenskimi neprilikami vzela narava.
Hidrolat moškatne kadulje uporabimo v Metini uravnalni vodici- tonik za mastno in nečisto kožo
Kako uporabljamo hidrolate v negi kože?
Hidrolat je je vsestranska sestavina in končni izdelek. Uporabite ga lahko kot tonik po čiščenju, za osvežitev čez dan, za fiksiranje ličil ali kot obkladek pri razdraženi koži. Poleti ga ohladite v hladilniku in uporabite po sončenju. Primeren je tudi za dojenčke, saj ne vsebuje alkohola ali dražečih snovi.
Pogosta vprašanja o hidrolatih
> Ali lahko hidrolat uporabljam vsak dan?
Da. Zaradi blagega delovanja je primeren za vsakodnevno uporabo, tudi večkrat na dan.
> Je primeren za otroke?
Da. Hidrolati so varni za otroke in dojenčke, če so pravilno pripravljeni in hranjeni.
> Kako dolgo zdrži hidrolat?
Ob pravilnem shranjevanju (v hladnem in temnem prostoru) do 6 mesecev po odprtju.
> Kakšna je razlika med hidrolatom in tonikom?
Hidrolat je čista rastlinska voda, pridobljena z destilacijo. Tonik pa je kozmetični izdelek, ki lahko vsebuje več različnih sestavin, tudi alkohol.
> Koliko hidrolata je v naših izdelkih?
To vprašanje si pri razumevanju naravne kozmetike postavlja premalo ljudi. Pogosto se hidrolati uporabljajo zgolj za dišavo ali kot nežna alternativa vodi, a gremo pri nas še korak dlje.
Pri nas hidrolat pogosto ni le dodatek, temveč predstavlja glavnino vodnega dela izdelka. V večini naših serumov, kremah in tonikih je 30 do 70 odstotkov hidrolata, v določenih formulacijah celo 100-odstotno hidrolatno osnovo, brez ene same kapljice navadne vode. Verjamemo, da vsak mililiter šteje. Če že sestavina zavzame toliko prostora, naj ima dejanski učinek.
Zakaj hidrolati in zakaj pravimo, da je vodna duša rastline
Za MOIKO hidrolat ni dodatek, ampak osnova. Vsako rastlino obravnavamo spoštljivo. Nabiramo jo ročno, destiliramo nežno, takoj po žetvi. S tem ohranimo njeno moč in značaj. Hidrolati so blagi, a učinkoviti. Primerni so tudi za najbolj občutljivo kožo. Ko jih vključimo v izdelek, ne dodamo le sestavine, ampak celotno izkušnjo rastline.
Hidrolat kot osnova naravnih formulacij
V večini kozmetičnih izdelkov voda nima posebne funkcije, tam je, da zapolni prostor. Pri nas je drugače. Hidrolat ni samo nadomestek vode, ampak je aktiven rastlinski izvleček, ki ima vlogo in učinek. V sebi nosi pomirjujoče, vlažilne in regenerativne učinke rastline, iz katere je pridobljen.
Zato v naših izdelkih ni naključen in ni zgolj za vonj. Je temelj formule in pomemben razlog, da koža bolje sprejme negovalne učinkovine.
Če si želite nego, ki se začne z rastlino in ne s sintetično formulo, vas vabim, da spoznate našo kolekcijo hidrolatov. Vsak izmed njih ima zgodbo, ki se začne v naravi in zaključi v vašem negovalnem obredu.
Do prihodnjič,
Darja
Št. komentarjev: 28
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