Vitamin C: Kako izbrati pravo obliko za svojo kožo
Vitamin C - močan antioksidant, ki že dolgo velja za ključnega pri podpori našemu telesu, zadnje čase vse bolj sije v ospredje kot zvezda nege kože v (naravni) kozmetiki, ki obljublja anti-age učinke in posvetljevanje kože.
Njegovo drugo ime je askorbinska kislina, saj je to njegova biološko aktivna in hkrati najbolj raziskana oblika. Pa je tudi najboljša?
Pri MOIKI trdno verjamemo v moč narave, vendar hkrati cenimo tudi napredne znanstvene tehnologije, ki nam omogočajo ustvarjanje izdelkov, najboljših za Vas. Zato smo se odločili združiti naravne sestavine z izbranimi laboratorijsko pridobljenimi derivati in s tem ta dva svetova združiti v eno.
Na ta način zagotavljamo, da Vaša koža prejme kar se da najboljše iz obeh svetov in prejme čim več koristi, ki ji vitamin C lahko nudi.
Preden se poglobimo v čudežne lastnosti, ki se skrivajo v tej visoko opevani učinkovini, si na hitro poglejmo, od kod sploh vitamin C izvira.
Zgodovina vitamina C: od pomorščakov do zvezde nege kože
Do 18. stoletja so pomorščaki opazili, da uživanje veliko citrusnih sadežev pomaga preprečevati skorbut (neprijetno bolezen, ki povzroča krvaveče dlesni in druge neprijetne težave kot posledica pomanjkanja vitamina C). Takrat niso imeli pojma, kaj je tisto kar v citrusih pomaga. Šele v tridesetih letih prejšnjega stoletja so znanstveniki uspeli ugotoviti, kaj je vitamin C.
Prav zaradi tega je koristno imeti v telesu in v koži dovolj vitamina C, a trik je v tem, da ga naše telo ne more proizvajati samo (zanimivost: nekatere živali, na primer miš, ga lahko!). Ljudje ga torej moramo v celoti pridobiti iz zunanjih virov. Uživanje veliko sadja in zelenjave, bogate z vitaminom C, bo nedvomno prispevalo k Vaši splošni ravni vitamina C.
Kljub temu pa se ravni vitamina C v koži ne bodo drastično dvignile, saj je njegova absorpcija v kožo iz krvnega obtoka omejena. Torej, ko zaužijete vitamin C s hrano ali prehranskimi dopolnili, se ta absorbira v krvni obtok in porazdeli po telesu. Telo vendarle uravnava njegovo raven in pri določeni ravni se odvečni vitamin C izloči skozi ledvice. Tudi, če zaužijete večje količine vitamina C, to ne pomeni nujno, da bo več vitamina C doseglo Vašo kožo.
A tukaj je dobra novica! Uporaba kreme ali seruma z vitaminom C je pogosto najučinkovitejša za ciljno usmerjene koristi za kožo.
O kakšnih koristih pa pravzaprav govorimo?
Začeli smo torej z opisom vitamina C kot prave super zvezde, ki v Vaši anti-age rutini ne sme manjkati. Da bi izkoristili vse njegove prednosti, pa je potrebno razkriti tudi njegove posebne zahteve.
Prva težava, s katero se srečamo je njegova izjemna nestabilnost – hitro oksidira, če ni pravilno shranjen, kar pomeni, da se lahko kakovost izdelka hitro poslabša. Druga težava nastopi pri absorpciji vitamina C, ki je vodotopen, medtem ko koža raje sprejema olje topne snovi. Da bi se temu izognili, je pomembno izbrati izdelke z nizko pH vrednostjo, ki je pod 3.5 pH, saj so ti bolj stabilni in lahko izboljšajo njegovo penetracijo v kožo. Vendar pa lahko tako nizka pH vrednost poveča tveganje za draženje kože, kar predstavlja še en negativen dejavnik.
Te lastnosti so predvsem značilne za vitamin C, ki se v svoji izolirani obliki imenuje askorbinska kislina. Ime prihaja iz latinske besede »scorbutus«, kar se nanaša na skorbut, na začetku omenjeno bolezen. Ko govorimo o askorbinski kislini, govorimo o biološko aktivni obliki vitamina C, kar pomeni, da je to oblika, ki jo naše telo neposredno prepozna, absorbira in uporabi v fizioloških procesih.
Askorbinska kislina (ascorbic acid)
- Biološko aktivna oblika vitamina C
- Najbolje deluje med koncentracijo 5-20%
- Topna v vodi, formulacije na vodni osnovi
- Precej nestabilna molekula -> bolj stabilna v izdelkih z nizkim pH -> lahko vodi v draženje kože
- Posvetljevanje kože, stimulacija sinteze kolagena
- Zaradi nestabilnosti in nagnjenosti k oksidaciji je neprimerna za večino naravnih kozmetičnih formulacij.
Da bi ohranili prednosti vitamina C, hkrati pa izboljšali njegove manj zaželene lastnosti, so se razvili različni derivati vitamina C.
Ali ste kdaj pomislili, koliko pravzaprav vemo o različnih oblikah vitamina C v kozmetiki in kako le-ta vpliva na njegovo učinkovitost?
Če že kupujemo izdelek z vitaminom C, je dobro vedeti, kaj kupujemo. Prav zato danes z vami delim najpogostejše derivate vitamina C, ki se nahajajo v kozmetiki.
Derivati vitamina C: različne oblike in različne koristi
Magnezijev askorbil fosfat (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate)
- L-askorbinska kislina stabilizirana z magnezijevo soljo -> vodotopna stabilna oblika
- Delno lipofilen in zato bolje penetrira v kožo
- Manjše draženje kože -> primeren za občutljivo kožo
- Zmanjšuje hiperpigmentacije, manj podatkov o zaščiti pred poškodbami UV sevanja
Natrijev askorbil fosfat (sodium ascorbyl phosphate - SAP)
- Slabša penetracija v kožo kot askorbinska kislina
- In vivo (latinski izraz, ki se uporablja za procese, ki potekajo v živem organizmu) študije govorijo o njegovih fotoprotektivnih (antioksidativnih) lastnostih in posvetljevanju kože
- In vitro (latinski izraz, ki se uporablja za procese, ki potekajo v nadzorovanem okolju izven živega organizma) študije kažejo stimulirano sintezo kolagena
- SAP naj bi imel svoje koristi tudi pri koži, nagnjeni k aknam; študija iz leta 2005 je pokazala, da ima 1% SAP močno protimikrobno delovanje proti bakteriji P. acnes, ki povzroča akne
Askorbil palmitat (ascorbyl palmitate)
- Stabilnost podobna askorbinski kislini
- Lipofilna oblika, lažje penetrira v kožo
- Stimulacija sinteze kolagena
- Zaenkrat ni dokazov, da se lahko pretvori v biološko aktivno obliko vitamina C v koži (askorbinska kislina)
Askorbil tetraizopalmitat (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate)
- Eden najbolj stabilnih derivatov vitamina C
- Lipofilna oblika, lažje penetrira v kožo
- Manjša verjetnost draženja kože
- Zaščita pred poškodbami UV sevanja, stimulacija sinteze kolagena, zmanjšanje hiperpigmentacije
- Primerna za tiste, ki dobro tolerirajo oljne formulacije
Askorbil glukozid (ascorbyl glucoside)
- L-askorbinska kislina stabilizirana z molekulo glukoze
- Izredno stabilna molekula, topna v vodi
- Študije dokazujejo pretvorbo v biološko aktivno obliko vitamina C
- Stimulacija sinteze kolagena, zmanjšanje hiperpigmentacij -> vseeno raziskave manj obsežne
Če ste prišli do tega odstavka, Vas moram pohvaliti - zdaj ste postali pravi ekspert za vitamin C.
Skupaj lahko zaključimo, da so različni derivati vitamina C stabilnejši in manj dražilni za koži, vseeno pa ohranjajo številne koristi tega pomembnega antioksidanta.
Naravna kozmetika z vitaminom C: Prava izbira za Vašo kožo
Ni vse, kar je naravno, samodejno primerno za Vašo kožo. Po drugi strani pa naravna kozmetika vključuje tudi sestavine, ki sicer ne rastejo na drevesu ali kje drugje v naravi. In prav tak primer je vitamin C.
Kot že torej omenjeno, so derivati tako ali drugače laboratorijsko pridobljene sestavine z manj ali bolj zastopanim izvorom v naravi. V naravni kozmetiki jih uporabljamo, da zagotovimo učinkovitost izdelkov na najvišjem, znanstveno podprtem nivoju.
S tem pristopom pri MOIKI ustvarjamo izdelke, pri katerih združujemo naravne sestavine in skrbno izbrane derivate, da Vam ponudimo nego, ki je tako kakovostna kot tudi varna.
Naša inovativna izdelka, Vrtični pomlajevalni fluid in Ričkov oljni serum, sta formulirana z naprednim derivatom vitamina C, ki omogoča boljšo absorpcijo in stabilnost v koži.
Vrtnični pomlajevalni fluid in Ričkov oljni serum vsebujeta askorbil tetraizopalmitat, ki je znan po izjemni sposobnosti absorpcije, prav tako pa se v kožnih celicah zadrži dlje časa kot biološko aktivna oblika vitamina C. Oba izdelka priporočam za uporabo pri anti-age negi, pri kateri želite koži povrniti mladosten sijaj.
Malo bolj primerna za nego aknaste kože pa sta izdelka Gorska roža in Šipkov serum, ki vsebujeta natrijev askorbil fosfat (SAP). Ta priljubljen derivat vitamina C ne le da pomaga pri posvetljevanju kože in spodbuja sintezo kolagena, temveč nudi tudi protimikrobno delovanje in je tako primeren tudi za vse tiste, ki imajo težave z aknami.
Hvala za branje - upam, da ste našli koristne informacije. Se beremo naslednjič!
Lina
- Austria, R., Semenzato, A., Bettero, A. (1997). Stability of vitamin C derivatives in solution and topical formulations. J Pharm Biomed Anal, 15(6):795-801
- Enescu, C. D., Bedford, L. M., Potts, G., & Fahs, F. (2022). A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 21(6), 2349–2359.
- Klock, J., Ikeno, H., Ohmori, K., Nishikawa, T., Vollhardt J., Schehlmann V. (2005). Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris. Int J Cosmet Sci, 27(3):171-6.
- Pullar, J.M., Car, A.C., Vissers, M.C.M. (2017). The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health. Nutrients, 9(8):866.
- Stamford, N.P. Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives. (2012). J Cosmet Dermatol, 11(4):310-7.
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