Pravi piling zame?
Kako smo uspeli demonizirati tako koristni del poti k sijoči koži?
Seveda je govora o naravnem, mehanskem pilingu. Izraz uporabljam namerno, saj je v našem prostoru povsem podomačena ali sistemsko prevzeta in v SSKJ2 uslovarjena beseda. Ker sem ena tistih, ki so na jezik in izrazoslovje izjemno občutljivi je prav, da vsem meni podobnim dvomljivcem v pravilno rabo vsemogočih tujk pojasnimo, da gre pravzaprav v tem primeru za besedo, ki jo pozna sedaj tudi Slovar slovenskega knjižnega jezika.
Piling v prevodu ali pojasnilu pomeni dobesedno: “odstranjevanje, luščenje odmrlih, poroženelih celic s površine kože”. Gre torej tudi za t.i. luščilno sredstvo (človek bi kar skrajšal na luščilo, vendar slednjega slovar ne pozna ali pa ga mi nismo našli). Na tem mestu naj omenimo še en izraz, ki je sicer povsem legitimen za uporabo, vendar je, kot še dosti drugih izrazov, na priljubljenosti pridobilo z globalizacijo in rastjo uvoza kozmetike iz angleško govorečih območij. Eksfoliacija (ang. exfoliation) je še eden, malce bolj “nobel” izraz za enak učinek.
Pomembno je vedeti, da z vsemi zgoraj naštetimi izrazi počnemo enako stvar. Odstranjujemo odmrle celice in spodbujamo nove, da pridejo na površje. Mi pa smo tako videti lepši, bolj sijoči in najpomembnejše, mladostnejši.
Kateri piling je primeren za koga in kaj učinkuje bolje, je stvar razprave. Mi smo tukaj zato, da zastopamo barve razuma. Zato smo se odločili za naravno kozmetiko in iz narave črpamo navdih za njeno ustvarjanje. Ne samo iz rožic, dreves in zeli. Iz narave človeka, bioloških procesov, bioritma in vsega, kar se našemu telesu dogaja skozi proces staranja v različnih delih leta, dneva in meseca (moderno se temu reče holizem) počrpamo navdih za kozmetično aplikacijo, ki je smiselna in učinkovita ter predvsem varna.
Kot lahko vedno drago kupimo sestavljeno jed, za katero je nekdo razvijal recept, ga preizkušal, poskrbel, da je jed obstojna in želel za svojo iznajdbo kaj zaslužiti, približno tako je tudi s takimi zadevami. Jed je lahko okusnejša kot tista, ki jo pripravite doma, lahko je bolj zdrava v kolikor upošteva vse mogoče parametre zdrave in uravnotežene prehrane, lahko je dietna, če je tako opredeljena in sestavljena, lahko pa je od vsega naštetega le okusna, všečna in zato zelo zaželena.
Se spomnite, da smo mi glas razuma? Torej, piling si lahko pripravite kakovostno doma in ni nujno, da posegate po pripravljenih preparatih, saj lahko zelo dober efekt dosežete tudi na povsem naraven in preprost način. Od tega stavka ne odstopamo ter za njim stojimo 100%. V nadaljevanju pojasnimo, zakaj imajo klasični načina odstranjevanja odmrlih celic povsem neupravičen renome na socialnih omrežjih in še kje. Prav tako boste izvedeli, katera zgodovinska osebnost je pustila v dotični tematiki prav poseben pečat na prav poseben način ;).
Encimski, mehanski, kemični. V kolikor posegate po mehanskih pilingih doma poskrbite, da bo abraziv (delci), ki ga dajete na kožo NEŽEN. Kar pomeni mlete ovsene kosmiče, ostro moko, mleta zelišča po maceraciji, jojobine perlice… Izogibajte se mletim lupinam oreha na primer. Sedaj ste verjetno že dobili občutek. Piling delci ne smejo bit grobi in veliki zato, da koži ne povzročite mikropoškodb, porušite njene zaščitne funkcije ter povzročite njeno preobčutljivost. Začnite enkrat tedensko, uporabite ta sredstva v gelu ali mleku za čiščenje, na mokri koži, uporabljajte nežne, krožne gibe na majhni površini. Piling NE pomeni drgnjenja, pač pa izjemno nežno masažo. Imejte radi svojo kožo, bodite nežni do nje in ji nudite, kar ji prija.
Začnite s tedensko frekvenco in povečujte do maksimalno 3x tedensko. Ko delce iz kože dodobra izperete, sledita dva izjemno pomembna koraka. Kožo dobro navlažite z naravnim vlažilnim serumom ali tonikom, ter počakajte minutko ali dve. Nato kožo namažite z negovalno kremo, ki jo bo zaščitila in pomagala negovati nove celice, ki so končno zadihale.
V kolikor imate izjemno občutljivo kožo in bi vseeno želeli poseči po mehanskem pilingu, lahko za odstranjevanje odmrlih celic uporabite brisačke/rokavice za čiščenje obraza iz mikro-vlaken, navlažena tkanina bo prav tako dobro opravila nalogo. Obraza nikar grobo ne drgnite, uporabite nežne krožne gibe, na krpico lahko nanesete tudi naravno čistilno mleko ali losjon, ki bo še dodatno pripomogel h gladkemu kroženju.
Za vse, ki se spogledujete s kemičnimi opcijami in niste prepričani, kje začeti, pa je zagotovo najboljše izhodišče način, ki ne daje takoj drastičnih rezultatov (če ste eden tistih, ki imajo radi občutek res čiste kože, ki je nemudoma po pilingu žametna in mehka na otip, le tega zares dosežete le z mehanskim pilingom oz. kombinacijo) je pa nežen in primeren za vse tipe kože ter dobro opravi svojo nalogo; eksfoliacija oz. luščenje s pomočjo sadno-zelenjavnih encimov. Običajno gre za proteolitične encime v izvlečkih papaje (encim papain), ananasa (encim bromelain) in buč. Le ti namreč razgrajujejo beljakovine, ki povezujejo odmrle celice, po tem jih zlahka odstranimo iz kože.
Zgoraj opisani način pa ima svojo francosko in zvenečo izpeljanko gommage! Beseda izvira iz glagola “gommer”, ki v francoščini pomeni izbrisati. Sliši se fino, a ne? Menda je bila prav poslednja francoska kraljica, tudi sicer izjemna ljubiteljica prestiža, lepotnih trikov in anti-age ritualov, Marija Antoaneta tista, ki je s svojo slavno čistilno- luščilno masko odgovorna, da danes o gommage-u še vedno ali ponovno na veliko govorimo.
Danes vedno bolj priljubljena oblika eksfoliacije in čiščenja kože je bila po receptu vladarice:
- 2 čajni žlički konjaka (cirkulacija, adstringent)
- 1/3 skodelice mleka v prahu (obnova celic)
- limonin sok (citronska kislina- kemični piling)
- 1 stepen beljak (vezivo, ko se posuši, ga odsfaljkamo iz obraza skupaj z odmrlimi celicami in nečistočami)
Ker recept ni preizkušen v naši hiši toplo svetujemo, da mešanico sprva testirate na manj delikatnih delih telesa!
Danes gommage dejansko pomeni kombiniran piling, encimsko-mehanski. Gre za obliko (najpogosteje) kremnega gela ali gela, ki ga nanašate na kožo, pustite 10-15 minut da se posuši, nato pa ga z masažnimi gibi mehansko odstranite iz obraza. Obraz nakandno izpirate. Gre za nežno in res dobro obliko odstranjevanja nečistoč in odmrlih celic iz kože. Z nekaj znanja in spretnosti lahko sicer gommage pripravite doma, vendar je enostavneje, če ga poiščete v dobro založeni prodajalni.
Zadnja oblika pilinga, ki jo moramo omeniti, pa so pilingi z AHA, BHA in PHA kislinami. Naš namen ni, da prepišemo znane teorije iz dostopnih virov (nekaj jih navajamo na dnu članka), pač pa, da vam na tem mestu položimo na srce, da tudi ta oblika eksfoliacije, sicer mnogokrat uporabljena tudi v naravnih negovalnih ritualih, zahteva pazljivost in dobro informiranost. Kljub temu, da izdelki za nego kože v prosti prodaji vsebujejo nizke koncentracije omenjenih kislin, je izjemno pomembno, da tako aplikacijo uporabljate varčno, v skladu z navodili proizvajalca, ter se o smiselnosti in načinu uporabe po možnosti pogovorite še s strokovnjakom/dermatologom. V veliko primerih se namreč zgodijo poškodbe in preobčutljivosti, porušene barierne funkcije kože ravno s prekomerno uporabo in neustreznim postopanjem po samem nanosu. Občutljivost na UV sevanje je prvi alarm, ko govorimo o primerni negi po uporabi kislinskih pilingov (AHA in BHA). Nikar ne pozabite na SPF zaščito in jih izvajajte v hladnejših mesecih pogosteje, ter redkeje takrat, ko ste soncu bolj izpostavljeni.
Če se sedaj sprašujete ali kemične pilinge odsvetujemo, je naš odgovor definitivno NE. Vsekakor je vredno razmisleka. Ne samo v tem kontekstu, eksfoliacije so lahko tudi posegi pri usposobljenem zdravstvenem strokovnjaku, ki so ustrezno vodeni, nadzorovani in učinkoviti. Na vas je, kako se boste odločili svoji koži ohranjati kondicijo in na kak način blažiti znake staranja. Pomembno je le, da se zavedate, da so naravno negovanje, dobro počutje, zdrav življenjski slog in zmernost tek na dolg proge kar se tiče vplivanja na kožo. Obstajajo seveda tudi bližnjice. Odločitev je vaša, mi pa smo tukaj zato, da vas pri teh odločitvah kdaj pa kdaj malce izzovemo :).
Na lepo, zdravo kožo in izraz sreče na vašem obrazu.
Darja
Reference in nadaljnje branje:
- https://www.westlakedermatology.com/blog/chemical-vs-physical-exfoliation/
- https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/exfoliate-face-naturally
- https://www.globenewswire.com/en/news-release/2016/12/13/1234731/0/en/American-Academy-of-Dermatology-How-to-Safely-Exfoliate-at-Home.html
- https://www.researchgate.net/publication/224892687_Skin_Care_with_Herbal_Exfoliants/link/54eb59190cf2a0305193c805/download
- https://practicaldermatology.com/articles/2020-apr/the-effect-of-cleansers-on-the-skin-microbiome
- https://www.scielo.br/j/babt/a/sqJsWgp9PVL9XN3k7R6yT5G/
Št. komentarjev: 171
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I was diagnosed with HSV type 2 and have been dealing with it for the past two years. Recently, I came across online reviews about natural cures, where people shared their success stories of recovery through herbal treatments. After learning more, I decided to order the herbal treatment they mentioned. After taking it for just two weeks, I was completely cured! I highly recommend anyone who has been diagnosed with HSV type 2 or other similar viruses consider this treatment. You can contact Dr Lucky for more information. WhatsApp Him +2347071651140 Doctor Lucky Herbal Cure and Email drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com Also Text and Follow Him https://www.facebook.com/remedyforherpes
I was diagnosed with HSV type 2 and have been dealing with it for the past two years. Recently, I came across online reviews about natural cures, where people shared their success stories of recovery through herbal treatments. After learning more, I decided to order the herbal treatment they mentioned. After taking it for just two weeks, I was completely cured! I highly recommend anyone who has been diagnosed with HSV type 2 or other similar viruses consider this treatment. You can contact Dr Lucky for more information. WhatsApp Him +2347071651140 Doctor Lucky Herbal Cure and Email drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com Also Text and Follow Him https://www.facebook.com/remedyforherpes
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God bless Dr Lucky for the wonderful works he is doing in people’s lives. Both those that referred me to him and those that want to contact this man will find help in his temple. My name is Anita Becky from United Kingdom. I have been healed of herpes (HSV) by Dr Lucky. I didn’t know African herbs are that powerful until I read a testimony online about how Dr Lucky has been helping people with this sickness and curing Herpes disease. His Email: at drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com This man sent me the herbs and within 3 days, I was healed. Without any hesitation, I want to say a big thank you by bringing help to anyone who needs your healing herbs. The hospitals could not cure this sickness and this spell caster could. I would direct all patients to get in touch with this spell caster and you will be helped immediately you click his email. His email once again is drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com and you can Whatsapp/Call his number +2347071651140
God bless Dr Lucky for the wonderful works he is doing in people’s lives. Both those that referred me to him and those that want to contact this man will find help in his temple. My name is Anita Becky from United Kingdom. I have been healed of herpes (HSV) by Dr Lucky. I didn’t know African herbs are that powerful until I read a testimony online about how Dr Lucky has been helping people with this sickness and curing Herpes disease. His Email: at drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com This man sent me the herbs and within 3 days, I was healed. Without any hesitation, I want to say a big thank you by bringing help to anyone who needs your healing herbs. The hospitals could not cure this sickness and this spell caster could. I would direct all patients to get in touch with this spell caster and you will be helped immediately you click his email. His email once again is drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com and you can Whatsapp/Call his number +2347071651140
God bless Dr Lucky for the wonderful works he is doing in people’s lives. Both those that referred me to him and those that want to contact this man will find help in his temple. My name is Anita Becky from United Kingdom. I have been healed of herpes (HSV) by Dr Lucky. I didn’t know African herbs are that powerful until I read a testimony online about how Dr Lucky has been helping people with this sickness and curing Herpes disease. His Email: at drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com This man sent me the herbs and within 3 days, I was healed. Without any hesitation, I want to say a big thank you by bringing help to anyone who needs your healing herbs. The hospitals could not cure this sickness and this spell caster could. I would direct all patients to get in touch with this spell caster and you will be helped immediately you click his email. His email once again is drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com and you can Whatsapp/Call his number +2347071651140
God bless Dr Lucky for the wonderful works he is doing in people’s lives. Both those that referred me to him and those that want to contact this man will find help in his temple. My name is Anita Becky from United Kingdom. I have been healed of herpes (HSV) by Dr Lucky. I didn’t know African herbs are that powerful until I read a testimony online about how Dr Lucky has been helping people with this sickness and curing Herpes disease. His Email: at drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com This man sent me the herbs and within 3 days, I was healed. Without any hesitation, I want to say a big thank you by bringing help to anyone who needs your healing herbs. The hospitals could not cure this sickness and this spell caster could. I would direct all patients to get in touch with this spell caster and you will be helped immediately you click his email. His email once again is drluckyherbalcure@gmail.com and you can Whatsapp/Call his number +2347071651140
Greatest thanks to Dr Oyagu for his herbal drugs that he prepared for me and when I start using it in just 2weeks I was completely cured and that ended my HERPES SIMPLEX 1&2 DISEASE I am so happy and grateful to Dr Oyagu . after reading about him on a testimony of Jason Cash on a blogger. I knew suddenly Dr Oyagu was the right Doctor to cure my HERPES SIMPLEX 1&2 DISEASE. I discuss with Dr Oyagu and he prepared a herbal medicine for me and when it got sent to me in South Korean. I used the herbal medicine and 2weeks and I went to check up again. after 15years of suffering from HERPES SIMPLEX 1&2 at last I am smiling once again. Dr Oyagu also has remedy to others disease like COLD SORES, HIV/AIDS, DIABETES, CANCER, HIGH BLOOD PRESSURE AND MANY MORE. I oblige everyone to contact this powerful herbalist Dr Oyagu and be free from your suffering. contact his WhatsApp line: +2348101755322 or his Email:Oyaguherbalhome@gmail.com
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